Crochet tow-truck amigurumi


Here’s a cute crochet tow-truck amigurumi (US terms) inspired by the style in your photo. It’s written to keep the same personality—big eyes, buck-tooth grin, and a small towing boom—while staying simple to make and easy to customize. Use cotton so the shapes are crisp and the seams are neat. The truck is worked mostly in the round, then embellished with small appliqués for the face and details.

This is a “recipe-style” pattern: I give counts that work for a palm-size toy and also note where you can add or subtract rounds to change proportions. Keep your stitches tight so stuffing doesn’t show. Safety eyes are recommended for display pieces; embroider eyes for young children.

Color is half the charm. Stick with rusty browns, olive/pea green for the patch, and gray bumpers—or switch to any palette you love (pastels look adorable). A little surface embroidery at the end gives that cartoon outline that makes the features pop.

The finished truck measures about 11–12 cm (4½–5″) long × 6–7 cm (2½–3″) tall with worsted cotton and a 2.75–3.25 mm hook. Scale yarn/hook up or down to change the size. For personal/gifting use.


Materials

  • Worsted cotton yarn: rust/brown (MC) ~35 g; light gray ~10 g; dark gray ~5 g; olive/green ~5 g; cream/white ~5 g; small scraps black, orange
  • Hook 2.75–3.25 mm (tight gauge for amigurumi)
  • Safety eyes 8–10 mm (or embroider)
  • Fiberfill, yarn needle, scissors, stitch markers
  • Optional: tiny felt for teeth (white) and pupils

Abbreviations (US)

MR = magic ring • ch = chain • sc = single crochet • inc = 2 sc in 1 st
dec = sc2tog • sl st = slip stitch • BLO/FLO = back/front loop only
(…)×N = repeat N times • R = round/row • st(s) = stitch(es)


Pattern

1) Chassis & Body Shell (one piece, in the round)

Work tightly in MC.

Base (oval rectangle):
R1: Ch 14. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 11, 3 sc in last ch; continue on underside: sc 11, 2 sc in last ch. (28)
R2: Inc, sc 11, inc, sc, inc, sc 11, inc, sc. (34)
R3: Inc, sc 12, inc, sc, inc, sc 12, inc, sc. (40)
R4: Inc, sc 13, inc, sc, inc, sc 13, inc, sc. (46)

Walls:
R5 (BLO): sc around. (46)
R6–R10: sc around 5 rounds, stuffing lightly as you go. (46)

Separate hood vs. cab:
R11: sc 14 (front/hood), place marker A; sc 18 (sides), place marker B; sc 14 to end.
R12 (shape hood slope): [dec, sc 5]×2, dec (front 14→11); sc to end. (43)
R13: On front 11 sts: sc, dec, sc, dec, sc → 9; sc to end. (41)
R14: On front 9 sts: dec, sc 5, dec → 7; sc to end. (39)
R15: Work even around. Fasten off leaving long tail to close later. Do not stuff firm yet—you’ll needle-sculpt after attaching bumper.

If you prefer a boxier nose, skip R12–R14 and keep the front straight.

2) Front Bumper & Grille (light gray)

R1: MR 6 sc. (6)
R2: inc around. (12)
R3: sc, inc×6. (18)
R4: 2 sc, inc×6. (24)
R5: Work FLO sc around to make a flat disk rim. Sl st to join, leave a long tail. Flatten slightly and stitch to the front center under the “smile” area. Use tail to pinch the hood edge a touch (a tiny tack stitch gives that raised hood).

Smile: with dark brown or black, surface-embroider a curve above bumper.

3) Windshield & Eyes (cream + safety eyes)

Windshield panel (cream):
Ch 10, sc in 2nd ch and across (9). Rows 2–5: ch1, turn, sc across (9). Border: work sc evenly around rectangle, placing 2–3 sc at corners. Leave tail.

Insert two 8–10 mm eyes through the panel (about 3 sts apart), add black embroidery for lids if you like. Stitch panel onto the cab front, centered and slightly tucked under the roof edge.

4) Roof Cap (MC)

Join MC at top of the cab behind windshield; work back-and-forth rows:
Row 1: ch 12, sc back across to form a strip.
Rows 2–4: ch1, sc across. Sew back edge to body to make a little cap/roof.
Beacon light (orange): MR 6 sc; next round sc around; stitch on top.

5) Doors & Patch Panel (flat appliqués)

Door frames (MC, make 2): ch 8, sc across 7; Row 2: ch1, sc 7; border sc around; sew one to each side behind the cab opening.
Green side patch: ch 7, 2 rows of sc in olive; stitch on the left side panel for that “patched” look.

6) Side Mirrors (MC ×2)

MR 5 sc; R2: sc around. Leave a tail. Sew one at each side of the windshield; add a short chain (ch 3–4) as the arm.

7) Wheels (make 4)

Tire (dark gray):
R1: MR 6.
R2: inc around. (12)
R3: sc, inc×6. (18)
R4: sc in BLO around to raise the sidewall.
R5: sc around. Stuff lightly; sew to body.
Hubcaps: MR 6 in brown; stitch to the center of each tire. Add a tiny orange ring on the rear wheels if desired.

8) Rear Flatbed & Fenders

With light gray, surface-crochet (sl st in the top loops) along the lower edge to outline the rocker panels and bumper.
For rear fenders, attach MC above each back wheel and work: ch1, hdc, 2 dc, 2 dc, hdc over 5 adjacent stitches; fasten off—this forms a small arch.

9) Tow Boom & Hook

Boom (dark brown):
Ch 14; Row 1: sc in 2nd ch and across (13).
Row 2: ch1, sc across.
Roll into a tight tube as you stitch it closed; bend slightly. Sew one end behind the cab.
Cable: ch 16–18 in dark brown; sew one end to boom tip.
Hook: ch 8; sc back 6, sl st in next; shape into a hook and stitch to cable end.

10) Teeth & Headlights

  • Teeth: cut two small white felt rectangles or crochet ch 3, sc 2; stitch inside the smile gap.
  • Headlights: MR 6 in cream; sew on each front corner.
  • With black, outline features with simple back-stitch to get that cartoon look.

11) Finishing

  • Stuff body firmly and close any gaps with the long tail from Step 1.
  • Needle-sculpt: take a few tugging stitches from the hood center down to the bumper to define the “nose.”
  • Weave in all ends.

Customization & Tips

  • Bigger truck: start the body with ch 18–20 and add extra “wall” rounds.
  • Stiffer shape: place a cardboard or plastic-canvas oval inside the base before final stuffing.
  • Kid-safe: replace safety eyes with embroidered eyes; sew teeth from yarn instead of felt.
  • Character vibe: slight asymmetry (one bigger tooth, a patched door) adds charm!